After I say the phrases “South Indian meals,” what involves your thoughts? Extra seemingly than not, you consider idli, dosa, chutney, sambhar and so forth. Within the widespread creativeness, these delicacies have come to signify what’s termed “South Indian delicacies.” Nevertheless, the broadness of this class does not do justice to the culinary range of the geographic area it covers. There is no disgrace in having fun with your staple idlis and dosas, however it’s vital to know that the southern states have rather more to supply. And when you get a style of these, you would possibly simply end up drawn to their aromas repeatedly. This was a major takeaway after my latest meal at Dakshin, which not too long ago shifted to ITC Grand Central in Mumbai.
Dakshin’s first outpost was established greater than three many years in the past. Since 1989, Chef Praveen Anand and his workforce of culinary specialists from totally different areas of the South have been working to remain true to the restaurant’s imaginative and prescient. The primary one was at ITC Kakatiya in Hyderabad. The mission is to provide diners a glimpse into the various flavourful layers of South Indian meals. To that finish, one will get the chance to style dishes from not only one or two, however 5 states right here: Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala, Puducherry, Tamil Nadu and Telangana.
Photograph Credit score: Dakshin, ITC Grand Central
The newly reopened Dakshin maintains the normal decor of its earlier avatar on the ITC Maratha in Andheri. Richly polished picket panels, ornate furnishings, gentle lighting and motifs of cultural symbols – all replicate the temple-style structure the flagship restaurant is understood to take its inspiration from. With this magnificent setting as our backdrop, we started our feast. We had been first served the appalam basket (containing crisp pappadams) and an array of 5 chutneys, which we handled as a dip. Dakshin made an impression proper from the beginning – these had been among the most scrumptious chutneys we’ve got ever tasted. They had been adopted by objects from “Iyer’s Trolley“. The trolley is understood for its purely vegetarian fare, made in vessels which are additionally saved separate from others within the kitchen. . The trolley features as a mini “dwell kitchen” expertise: you may see your adai dosa, paniyaram and banana dosa cooking to golden goodness.
Photograph Credit score: Toshita Sahni
Dakshin is legendary for its “Signature Eating Experiences” which current set parts of delicacies from totally different states. You’ll be able to select between Saivam (Vegetarian), Asaivam (Non-Vegetarian), Maitsyam (Seafood) and Saivam No Onion- No Garlic (Vegetarian). The Sampoornam (which has a separate curation for veg and non-veg), provides further dishes in every course. Aside from the signature curations, it’s also possible to order particular person delicacies individually. The final a part of the menu is devoted to a state-wise choice of culinary delights.
You is likely to be questioning if the serving model right here is like that of a thali. One does get restricted parts of all kinds of meals objects, starting from appetisers to foremost course. The treats are served on a wonderful thali lined with banana leaves. In contrast to a thali, nonetheless, all the pieces included within the meal is just not positioned concurrently in your desk. Dakshin’s purpose to take you on a culinary journey is additional emphasised right here: dishes arrive sequentially in batches and you may take your time to savour each. This additionally means you can take pleasure in your starters with out worrying about your foremost course getting too chilly.
Photographs Credit score: Dakshin ITC Grand Central
As a part of the appetisers, we tasted two a la carte objects from the “Prarambham” class: Meen Varuval (barbeque) and Telangana Kodi Roast (rooster). Each had been scrumptious, however the latter is one thing you must undoubtedly not miss. We had been then handled to a variety of things from the varied set menus. Every morsel made us conscious about how every dish managed to tease our style buds in another way. As Chef Prakash Mohanarangan defined to us, every area of South India has its personal most popular souring agent and kind of chilli. Though you might recognise the broad tastes of every dish, you will realise that what constitutes tartness or spice in a single place is totally different from one other, even when it might simply be a couple of 100 kilometres away.
We noticed that play out in entrance of us as we savoured dry preparations, vegetable dishes, curries, stews and extra. As an illustration, we particularly loved the Chemeen Manga Charu (a Keralite Prawns curry with bydagi chillies and uncooked mango) and the Ooragai Mamsam (an Andhra mutton pickle-like curry). Evaluating these taught us first-hand that sourness could be delightfully distinctive. However these issues are an extra supply of enjoyment – not the inspiration of it. Dakshin manages to recreate the heartiness of home-style meals in a fine-dining setting. You do not really feel like it’s a must to make an effort to benefit from the meals – you merely do!
Photograph Credit score: Dakshin ITC Grand Central
We relished our savouries with traditional accompaniments like idiyappam, veechu paratha, steamed rice and appams. Among the many rice choices, there was additionally biryani, bagala bhath (curd rice) and bisi bhele bhath. What a diffusion, proper? However that is not all of it. There are additionally some wonderful drinks you may sip on. The Neer Extra (South Indian spiced buttermilk) here’s a traditional and you will be tempted to guzzle it in gallons. We liked that they served the tangy rasam in a glass slightly than a bowl. These wanting one other form of ‘scorching drink’ will not be disenchanted both. Among the many signature cocktails, we suggest East Coast Highway and Banjara Hills. The latter – a concoction of dry gin, recent watermelon, basil, orange pulp, tonic and chia seeds – paired with our meal particularly nicely.
Photograph Credit score: Dakshin ITC Grand Central
It was time for the candy ending to our afternoon, within the type of a tempting trio: Elaneer Payasam, Badam Halwa and Kadal Patchee. The soothing notes of coconut within the payasam and the richness of the (not oversweet) badam halwa had been becoming comforts after the savoury programs. It was our first time attempting Kadal Patchee, a frozen dessert made utilizing khoya and pistachios. Relatively harking back to kulfi, this had chilled layers of milky goodness that had been more than pleased to dig into. As full as our bellies had been, we couldn’t go away with out sipping on some piping scorching filter espresso.
Having travelled round South India since a baby, I had fallen in love with the totally different regional cuisines. However on coming residence to Mumbai, I might often discover them homogenised below the “South Indian meals” class. One might discover institutions that maybe specialised within the delicacies of 1 or two states – however not all of them. Eating at Dakshin was due to this fact a standout expertise. Should you too want to uncover the intricate tapestry of flavours woven all through the Southern states of India, Dakshin is the place to be.
The place: ITC Grand Central, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Highway, Parel, Mumbai
