Slivers of motion from the 200-year-old Ramnagar-ki-Ramlila in Varanasi

The Ramnagar Fort in Varanasi that performs host to the 200-year-old Ramlila.
| Picture Credit score: Particular Association

Observe the elephant, we’re advised. Anant Narayan Singh, the Maharaja of Ramnagar, seated atop a caparisoned elephant, and different members of the royal household, transfer to a web site on the Ramlila maidan the place Meghanad’s (Ravana’s son’s) demise is to be staged.

On the maidan, the whole group of Ramlila fanatics is current with the Ramcharitmanas and a torch of their arms. In a single nook of the viewers is a bunch of turbanded singers with pakhawaj, reciting sections of the Ramcharitamanas.

Because the singers sing, the samvad (dialogue) begins. “Chup raho…saavdhaan”, says the conductor of the occasion, who can also be the official prompter of the spectacle.

A gaggle of singers with Pakhawaj reciting sections from the Ramcharitmanas in the course of the ramlila spectacle.
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

It’s that point of the 12 months in Varanasi when the whole place turns right into a stage with a number of venues. It’s the third week of Ramlila, and round 12 of us, theatre practitioners from totally different components of India, have come right here to expertise the visible feast.

Bigger-than-life figures assume the position of demons on the Ramnagar Ramlila spectacle.
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

An enormous effigy of a smiling Meghanad, who can also be a serious disguiser (behrupiya), is being delivered to the central area. There are 4 extra behrupiya rakshasas in effigy blocking Meghnad. A younger boy who dons the position of Lakshman involves duel with the massive effigy. He retains going backwards and forwards, capturing arrows at every disguised type in entrance of Meghnad, who’s hiding behind them. Lastly, Lakshman strikes down Meghanad, and he’s burnt.

Whereas the effigies signify the rakshasas, Ram, Lakshman and Hanuman are performed by individuals.
| Picture Credit score:
Particular Association

Mourning follows, and girls congregate to cry for Meghnad. That occurs within the part reserved for Lanka, and the whole crowd walks to that time.

There are three components to this efficiency custom that’s held for a month in Varanasi. The collective studying, the dialogue and the remainder of the spectacle. “You both give attention to the music or the dialogue. You’ll be able to’t be right here or there. Then, you received’t perceive something,” a singer tells us. Whereas a Pakhawaj participant shares: “This has been taking place for over 200 years. The solid is chosen by the Maharaja, they usually rehearse for a minimum of two months.”

Bigger-than-life figures assume the position of demons whereas Ram, Lakshman and Hanuman are performed by individuals. Hundreds congregate across the maidan to witness the ultimate aarti.

On our manner again, at a juice store, the proprietor of the store tells us that round midnight, Naak Katana (nostril slicing of Shoorpanaka) would happen within the space known as Lanka in Varanasi. “Do you suppose Shoorpanakha’s mutilation was honest?” I ask a lady. “She was the rationale for warfare. She is necessary. If not, how will Ravana get killed by Rama, how will he get moksha?” she justifies.

Elsewhere, veteran actor Manoj Pandey charms the viewers round him. Round him are the small rakshasas, a loud bunch of youngsters who’re simply completely happy working from one finish of the road to a different. The scene to be staged is a duel between Shoorpanaka’s cousins Khara-Dushan (performed by Pandey), and Ram. Pandey has been a Ramlila thespian for the previous 4 many years. He switches off from his act with finesse and tells us that that is sadhana (devotion) for him. “I belong to the Aghora religious custom. The rigour of that observe feeds my performing too,” he says.

On the final day of our Ramlila journey, we come early, like 1000’s of others, to look at the Ravan Dahan. The ten-headed king of Lanka towers over all of us. There’s something so regal about him one can not fairly describe in phrases. Here’s a man who lived a life wealthy in music, warfare and need.

After what felt like many hours of ready, the gang strikes in the direction of the nook of the maidan we now know as Lanka. And there he’s, bursting into flames, as Vibheeshana units fireplace to him. The smile in his eyes is changed by the glow of fireplace. Quickly, the whole figurine lights up, and a scorching air balloon carrying a flame takes off. “That’s Ravan’s spirit, attaining salvation, after being killed by Ram,” a spectator remarks. The vivacious king is now a burning reminiscence.