I’ve suitably skipped dinner the pervious night time in preparation for my Dindigul journey. A essential tip to those that plan to go to the city on a food tour: go on an empty abdomen. If doable, quick for per week earlier than you begin dreaming of seeraga samba biryani, for, you may eat excess of you’ll be able to deal with. Dindigul, positioned rather less than 65 kilometres from Madurai, is the birthplace of Tamil Nadu’s seeraga samba biryani that’s now going locations. But there may be extra to the city than simply biryani. Here are our picks.
Lamb trotters for breakfast
In Dindigul, a number of eating places serve biryani from as early as 6am. I don’t yield to the temptation so early in the day, and check out one thing completely different. Bangaru Biryani, began in 1931 by Bangarusamy Naidu, has opened a brand new outlet on Round Road, serving biryani, idli and idiyappam with a spread of mutton and rooster sides for breakfast.
The breakfast platter at Bangaru Biryani Hotel in Dindigul
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KARTHIKEYAN G
The small eatery that may seat no more than 12 folks, is being run by S Giridharan, nice grandson of the founder Bangarusamy. Giridharan’s father Subbrayalu Naidu educated underneath the founder in his youthful years. A small framed picture of Subbrayalu hangs on the wall, reverse which the menu is displayed. Ok Angusamy, the grasp, lays out a feast on a leaf: idiyappam, idli, lamp trotters soup, mutton chukka, vellai kuruma, naattu kozhi kulambu, and mutton milagu kulambu. There can be a serving of mutton biryani and dalcha.
The mutton chukka alone, a dish of popcorn-sized boneless mutton slow-cooked with chilli powder and curry leaves, makes the journey worthwhile. The meat is tender, enveloped in a glistening layer of chilli-infused oil, punctuated by crisp curry leaves. It goes nicely with the idiyappam.
A point out should be made of the creamy mutton vellai kuruma, a Dindigul staple. Angusamy explains that it has floor coconut, cashew nuts and roasted chana dal. This curry is the subsequent hottest dish is the city after biryani. It is gentle with successful of pepper, and might be had with idlis in addition to idiyappams and dosas.
How a lot biryani is an excessive amount of?
It is pure to really feel overwhelmed by the sheer quantity of locations to eat biryani in city. With three branches, Siva is the new favorite in Dindigul, and I perceive why. The oldest outlet, a hole-in-wall place at Begampur, is at all times packed. Venu, a couple of blocks away, serves first rate biryani too. But there’s something about Siva that makes it a tad higher.
Lunch is served at Siva Biryani
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KARTHIKEYAN G
The biryani is mild brown, with the rice cooked al dente. The spices are balanced — in contrast to some eating places that go a bit overboard with cinnamon — and the meat is tender. For folks like me who grew up consuming Venu, Thalappakatti, and Ponram biryani, Siva’s is analogous and completely different at the identical time. A Mohan Raj, a relative of the founder Ok Ganesan, explains that the trick is to supply the proper elements. While the restaurant has been round from 1989, it actually took off after the pandemic, with vacationers from Chennai, Bengaluru, and Coimbatore visiting the city only for their biryani.
“In 2023, a Japanese restauranteur came to Dindigul for a week-long trip,” remembers Mohan. “He ate our biryani for lunch every day, alternating it with kari dosai for dinner.” The 32-year-old doesn’t keep in mind his title nor did he perceive the visitor’s language. “But I do know that he went back happy,” he says.
Warm, gooey halwa and jilebis
It is widespread observe for vacationers to cease at one of the candy outlets for its jilebis after their repair of biryani. Among the oldest such outlets is Jilebi Seshaiyer on Sandhai Road. Established in the Nineteen Sixties, the store is the brainchild of SK Seshaiyer, who initially offered sweets on pushcarts at varied spots in city. His jilebis regularly grew in recognition and right this moment, are served contemporary and mildly heat via the day.
Jilebi at Jilebi Seshaiyer Sweets on Sandhai Road, Dindigul
| Photo Credit:
KARTHIKEYAN G
A piece of the candy makes the palate blissful, and the proprietor R Bhuvaneshwari suggests we additionally strive the godhumai halwa. The sticky, chocolate-brown dessert is heat and drips with ghee.
Coffee with a aspect of potato masala
A savouries store in a small lane sells what’s arguably the oldest snack in Dindigul. Known as ‘Alwar kadai’, the store has been round for over 75 years, promoting combination, boondi, murukku, pakoda, amongst others. But I arrive there on the final leg of my journey for a style of its potato pottalam, a dish of boiled, mashed potatoes cooked with onions, turmeric and inexperienced chillies.
Potato masal at Aalwar Sweets in Dindigul
| Photo Credit:
KARTHIKEYAN G
The proprietor SS Sathyanarayanan who’s seated at the counter, says gravely: “It is not yet 3pm.” The snack is accessible solely then, and will get offered out quickly after. Once the masala arrives from the kitchen, it’s packed as small dollops in banana leaves.
A little after 3.15pm, he presents a pottalam for me to strive. It is triangular — the wrapping offers means to heat, thick, potato masala folded in a banana leaf. It isn’t too heavy flavour-wise, however could make for a pleasant snack to go together with espresso or tea from the many tea outlets in city.
As for dinner, I determine to make do with coconut water. But one can even do one other spherical at Ponram, Venu, Thalappakatti, and Bangaru, not essentially in that order.
How to get there
There are a number of trains from Chennai that cease at Dindigul, resembling the Vaigai Express, Tirunelveli Vande Bharat Express, and Pothigai Express. Madurai is the nearest metropolis with an airport, with common buses to and from Dindigul.
