Evaluation: The Tables New Menu Guarantees A Journey From Farm To Desk To Reminiscence

“We’re by no means about, ‘Take a look at how a lot we are able to do!’ I believe the meals is straightforward and isn’t attempting to indicate off,” says Chef Will Aghajanian, when requested to outline the essence of the eating expertise at The Desk. Chef Will has not too long ago been appointed as Chef-in-Residence at Colaba’s beloved and multi-award-winning hotspot. Initially from Washington D.C., Chef Will has labored in a number of famend kitchens together with Per Se in New York, MIMI in Greenwich Village, The Catbird Seat in Nashville, and Horses in Los Angeles. His new menu for the Mumbai restaurant, ‘The Desk 2.0,’ marks a whole overhaul after 13 years of its institution. “Meals that offers you a way of the season and highlighting India’s substances are two pillars of the brand new menu,” he summarises. However how does this translate right into a meal? We feasted there to seek out out.

_{Pappa al Pomodoro Toast. Photograph Credit score: The Desk}

The preliminary treats encapsulated the hospitality and informal allure one associates with The Desk. The Heat Brioche with whipped goat butter and Pappa al Pomodoro Toast have been rapidly polished off. We should say, their deliciousness could even convert those that imagine towards beginning with bread. What adopted was a easy and spectacular Duck Liver Mousse with bitter cherry. We noticed reverent silence to savour it to the fullest. 

_{Duck Liver Mousse. Photograph Credit score: The Desk}

When one is eating on the restaurant that pioneered the farm-to-table philosophy within the nation, it might be onerous not to have excessive hopes for the salads. Luckily, there was no disappointment in retailer for us, solely delight. Whereas The Desk’s legendary Sobo Salad retains its place on the menu, do not hesitate to check out the colourful new choices. We cherished the Panzanella (with crushed cucumber, shaved onion, and summer season tomatoes) in addition to the Lollo Rosso & Guava Salad (with chicory, Kashmiri Pistachio, Belper Knolle). The great burst of freshness that accompanied every chew was a testomony to the restaurant’s ingredient-driven basis.

_{Photograph Credit score: The Desk}

Among the many vegetarian small plates, we additionally relished the Focaccia Di Recco, with winter truffle, Stracchino cheese and oven-roasted grapes. In a means, this divine dish captures the symphony of wine and cheese – on a plate. However that does not imply it is best to skip the glass. Wine holds a spot of eminence at The Desk. Its wine program gained the ‘Award For Excellence’ by the Wine Spectator for 4 consecutive years since 2019. The sommelier can suggest pairings that superbly elevate the flavours of the contemporary substances in your plate. The cocktails are to not be missed both – many regulars swear by The Desk Mary, amongst different libations. Whereas there’s a set checklist of signature and traditional cocktails, additionally, you will usually discover particular limited-time menus that highlight seasonal substances and/or novel methods.

_{Lobster Fra Rothschild. Photograph Credit score: The Desk}

As we sipped our drinks, we additionally loved the refreshing bounty of the ocean. If you would like a cool and crisp chew, go for the Smoked Salmon Tostada. In search of one thing extra indulgent and visually spectacular? The Lobster Fra Rothschild, which comes with a dapper bow tie, is certain to wow. The Crab Cake Toast is a form of DIY challenge you assemble on the desk, per your preferences. Reduce the cake with an unlimited pair of scissors, wrap it with lettuce, high it with pickles and sauces, and be prepared for an incredible explosion of flavour.

Consolation and indulgence radiate from the pasta and huge plates sections of the menu. We relished each flavourful chew of the Backyard Herb Fazzoletti with Tuscan hen liver ragu, garnished with the goodness of winter truffles. The Desk’s Pan-Roasted Cornish Hen is loosely based mostly on the notorious roast hen served at Zuni Cafe (an iconic institution in San Francisco), Chef Will later revealed. It was a delicious delicacy that marked the tip of the savoury a part of our feast.

_{Jersey Creme Caramel. Photograph Credit score: The Desk}

The dessert choice is enticingly numerous too. Now we have heard tales of loyal patrons on diets saving their treasured ‘cheat’ candy alternatives for once they dine at The Desk. Every deal with we tasted struck a stability between familiarity and class. The melt-in-the-mouth Jersey Creme Caramel had a teasing trace of spice derived from Montenegro. The Prosecco-enhanced Santa Rosa Plum Sorbet and the Ardour Fruit & Mandarin Creamsicle supplied cool, fruity satisfaction. We additionally cherished the deftly elevated classics just like the Marshmallow Ice Cream and the Cherry Jubilee Meringue Cake.

_{Cherry Jubilee Meringue Cake. Photograph Credit score: The Desk}

Once I requested Chef Will about his imaginative and prescient for the brand new menu, he stated, “I wished to make a extra cohesive menu. There have been so many nice cooks who’ve created dishes for The Desk prior to now, nevertheless it was all like a ebook written by 4 completely different authors. I simply wished to make easy meals, someplace I’d be excited to eat a number of instances every week.” Certainly, we have been left wishing we had the great fortune to savour such delights week after week. Our dinner at this Colaba establishment didn’t simply hint the journey from farm to desk. It was an expertise that has etched itself into the following vacation spot – our cherished recollections.

The place: The Desk, Floor Flooring, Kalapesi Belief Constructing, reverse Dhanraj Mahal, Apollo Bandar, Colaba, Mumbai.

_{Photograph Credit score: The Desk}