
I used to be at Ten Levels, one in every of my favorite eating places in Kodaikanal when the dialog with the chef drifted to native elements round Kodai. One of many elements that cropped up was kalpasi (also referred to as Dagad phool in Hindi). The chef talked about that kalpasi also referred to as black stone flower (Parmotrema perlatum) is basically dried lichen that grows within the decrease ranges of Kodaikanal. They’re usually discovered on rocks and tree branches. Not far-off from Kodaikanal is the area of Chettinad in Southern Tamil Nadu which is residence to the Nattukottai Chettiars. The group’s buying and selling ties round Southeast Asia have formed the distinct identification of this delicacies. The cooking fashion is likely to be rooted within the coronary heart of Tamil Nadu however is enriched by an uncommon typically unique set of elements. Kalpasi is one in every of these elements.
It isn’t simply in India, lichens are used internationally. Iceland moss (Cetraria Islandica) was once a key ingredient in northern Europe and Scandinavia. From bread to pudding to porridge, this lichen has been utilized in many dishes.
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In its uncooked state, this ingredient could not have a lot style or perfume however the whole lot adjustments as soon as it comes into contact with warmth. It releases a really distinctive earthy, virtually smoky flavour when it is heated with cooking oil or ghee. That is one cause why that is used within the tempering course of and in biryani masalas throughout India.
Kalpasi is the hero ingredient within the kalpasi rooster chukka (see recipe) that I attempted at Sanghamithirai at Feathers Resort. Sangamithirai showcases regional delicacies from throughout Tamil Nadu and Prem Kumar, the Government Chef of the lodge believes that kalpasi provides an exquisite dimension to this rooster chukka that works rather well as a starter. The opposite dish I checked out was a kaikari venjanam – a thick vegetable curry that could be a nice accompaniment for dosa or as a aspect with rice and sambar or rasam. This vegetarian dish makes use of a mixture of different spices that embrace cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds and bay leaf. It additionally contains star aniseed, one other spice that is distinctive to Chettinad delicacies, nevertheless it’s the kalpasi that provides to the flavour profile of this dish.
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Recipe Courtesy – Prem Kumar, Government Chef, Feathers Resort, Chennai

Kai Kari Venjanam Picture Credit score: Sangamithirai, Feathers Resort Chennai
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Recipe Courtesy – Prem Kumar, Government Chef, Feathers Resort, Chennai
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About Ashwin RajagopalanI’m the proverbial slashie – a content material architect, author, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. College lunch packing containers are often the start of our culinary discoveries.That curiosity hasn’t waned. It’s solely obtained stronger as I’ve explored culinary cultures, road meals and nice eating eating places internationally. I’ve found cultures and locations by culinary motifs. I’m equally keen about writing on shopper tech and journey.