It will not be but 9am when a person arrives at Amsavalli carrying a metal thookuvali and a fabric bag. The hum of employees getting the parcel counter prepared fills the air, and he waits patiently as uthappams and parottas are being ready in the kitchen. It is a dinner-time ritual for folks in Madurai to lug a thookuvali to a streetside parotta store for salna. At Amsavalli although, this additionally occurs at breakfast time. The restaurant, that has been in existence for over 75 years, gives a breakfast menu not like wherever else in the town: assume mutton liver curry and mind fry. Here, mutton offal is served for just a little over an hour from 9.30am onwards, getting sold-out lengthy earlier than lunch is prepared.

Mutton cops at Amsavalli in Madurai served for breakfast with uthappam and parotta.
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G
G Arunraj, the third-generation proprietor of the restaurant on East Veli Street, says that the menu is an extension of his grandfather’s concept of providing mutton samosas, trotters paaya, and dum tea from 4am to 6am. “This was served from our initial days,” says the 47-year-old, including that their chief prospects have been employees on the wholesale markets at close by Nelpettai and Vethalaipettai. “The entire neighbourhood used to be bustling from as early as 3.30am, with load men lugging bulging sacks,” he says, including that additionally they had early morning walkers who would spherical off their routine with a cup of their paaya.
The pre-dawn snacks ultimately gave strategy to the current menu, that Arunraj says will get sold-out by 11am. The menu features a vary of mutton offal curries that may be paired with their delicate parottas or uthappams.
The curries come in small parts, and may be simply polished off with two uthappams. We order a serving of virtually every little thing on the menu. The mutton nenju chops, a fiery semi-gravy of meat slow-cooked till it’s softer than their parotta, is well a favorite.
Although tempted to order extra parts, we transfer on to the opposite choices: eeral kulambu, mutton liver cooked in a chilli and coriander masala base, mutton kidneys enveloped in a spicy masala, and the mutton chukka. The latter pairs properly with their parotta. But the spotlight is the mutton onion kulambu, a aromatic curry of meat simmered in shallots. This is greatest had with their thick uthappams: douse a bit in the curry and wrap it in a small piece of mutton to benefit from the flavours of meat and the curry to the fullest.

Mutton liver curry at Amsavalli
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G
Our waiter suggests we attempt their well-known apple milk. The chilled dessert of tiny items of apple and thick milk served in a tall glass, we realise, cools down the palate after the onslaught of the spices. Two parottas, one uthappam, and a number of other plates of the curries down, we realise why this menu works. Mutton is irresistible, regardless of which a part of the day it’s served.
Open for breakfast from 9.30am to 11am. Call 0452 262 0117 for particulars.
Published – June 16, 2025 01:20 pm IST







