This new restaurant in New Delhi serves meals from undivided Punjab

The framed entrance web page of a number one each day from the day India obtained independence, a grandmother’s previous wood comb, centuries-old sword — for a minute, I mistake it for somebody’s house. However that is Ikk Punjab, a superb eating restaurant by Rajan and Deepika Sethi of Vivid Hospitality in Connaught Place, the center of New Delhi.

As I stroll round, Rajan explains that this restaurant is a tribute to his forefathers who have been born in pre-Partition Punjab. “My dad and mom and grandparents grew up on the opposite facet of Punjab — Rawalpindi and Chakwal. So, I believed let’s open a spot that serves the meals of undivided Punjab that many have forgotten,” he says.

The area

Interiors of Ikk Punjab
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Ikk Punjab has been designed to appear like the house of an Military veteran — Rajan’s grandfather was within the Indian Military. The checkered ground and the old school followers are a throwback to his grandparents’ house. Darkish mahogany chairs are in distinction with rattan sofas, a floor-to-ceiling cupboard with books and artefacts rises alongside a wood staircase giving it an informal, dwelling room-style contact. “We wish to name this a house and serve individuals meals in such a manner that they neglect they’re in a restaurant,” Rajan says.

A bar on the primary ground with low-hung lights has the texture of an previous Military membership. Lovely candle holders on tables lend a heat glow to the realm. Solely bar nibbles and cocktails can be served on this ground when its house owners get the liquor licence. 

Untold tales

Meals at Ikk Punjab
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Identical to the area, the tales transcend to meals with a deal with dishes from the opposite facet of Punjab, which is now in Pakistan. The person behind the present is Chef Naresh Kotwal. Some recipes have been handed down generations, some are sourced from handwritten notes whereas others have been researched from books. Rajan says he has a pal in Pakistan who guided him with the meals.

So, it’s no shock that the same old hen tikkas and kebabs make manner for extra fascinating starters, just like the Peshawari charsi tikka that has its origin in a small store named Nisar Charsi Tikka in Namak Mandi, Peshawar. This mutton kebab with kidney fats wrapped round it was as soon as ready by a person referred to as Nisar Khan — they’re referred to as ‘charsi ke tikke’ in Pakistan as a result of as tales go, he used to have charas (cannabis).

Dohra Kebab
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We’re then served two extra scrumptious kebabs — chapli and dohra kebabs. Immensely well-liked in Pakistan, ‘chapli’, which suggests the palm, derives its identify from the method of urgent the mutton mince within the hand to melt and flatten it. Tomatoes served with it assist reduce by way of heavy spices. The dohra kebabs are totally different from something I’ve had — it’s a mutton seekh rolled over a hen seekh kebab. The juices from mutton circulate into the hen, preserving the kebab gentle and tender. Dohra means double, therefore the identify.

One of many stars right here is Lahori sajji, a full hen accomplished on a rotisserie with entire spices. Sajji is a tribal dish from Balochistan, the place hen filled with potatoes and rice is cooked for a full day and is historically eaten as a one-pot meal. This model was ready with hung curd. The chef cuts it with a pair of scissors and serves it.

From the royal courtroom

Gosht Beliram
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For mains, I had a plethora of dishes. The origin of gosht Beliram, a succulent mutton curry traces its origins to the courtroom of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founding father of the Sikh empire within the nineteenth Century. He was so impressed along with his khansama’s (chef’s) creation that he named the dish after him.

The Lahori chikkad chole (chickpeas),  is a speciality from Lahore the place the chickpeas are cooked with simply salt and ginger, most likely as they have been in village properties. It’s served with a salad fabricated from onions, cucumber and tomatoes and a gentle curd chutney however I favor the dish with none accompaniments as a result of then it retains its unique flavours. Then there’s mardaan murgh, hen cooked in milk and cashew, a recipe that traces its origins to Awadh. 

Matthi chole
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This facet of Punjab has not been forgotten both. One of many appetizers comes from the alleys of Amritsar — matthi chole, a scrumptious flaky matthi topped with tangy chole, onions, sev and pomegranate and served with tamarind chutney. It’s a favorite from Rajan’s childhood days when leftover chole stacked on prime of a matthi was eaten as a crunchy snack — I too cherished it. 

And a few classics stay — the butter hen could be very a lot on the menu and it is without doubt one of the finest variations of this dish I’ve eaten within the metropolis. Fortunately, it isn’t actually on the candy facet.

As I’m going by way of the starters and the principle dishes, I realise that eating right here is not only a meal — it’s recreating a slice of historical past.

At Ok-13 Outer Circle, Connaught Place; Midday to 3pm and 7pm to 11.30pm; Meal for 2 prices ₹2,500 plus taxes